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Makers’ Tales’: Catarina Riccabona

‘Makers’ Tales’ showcase: Catarina Riccabona at the Guy Goodfellow Collection Showroom

 In celebration of the London Design Festival, textile artist and weaver Catarina Riccabona will be joining the series of  ‘Makers’ Tales’ showcases in the Guy Goodfellow Collection showroom.

Cartarina loves working with her hands. She enjoy the flexibility, the spontaneous changes and the direct contact with the materials that is possible when weaving by hand.

She makes one-off interior pieces, mostly throws, and, more recently, wall hangings.

Her textiles are often large compositions featuring areas of juxtaposed weave structures.

Catarinas’ practice is based on environmental values. She works with a well-researched selection of yarns. She predominantly use natural (unbleached, undyed) linen in her warps. For the weft yarns she likes to work with linen, hemp, wool, alpaca and second-hand or recycled yarns.

Her favourite supplier for plant-dyed wool is a woman in Finland who grows all the ingredients in her own garden and dyes small batches of local rare breed wool by hand.

Every time her results differ slightly, and Catarina loves these subtle and unpredictable nuances.

Recycled linen can be another source of colour and also Catarina buys it from a UK company that re-spins industrial surplus into new yarn. The colours are limited and depend on what is available at any given time. She enjoys this challenge of finding solutions within a set of limitations.

Catarina also collect warp remnants from weave colleagues which she knots them back together to form a continuous string to be used in the weft. During weaving the little knots appear all over the cloth and form a distinct feature that is reminiscent of elements in tribal textiles from all over the world.

This hand-made and natural character that is typical of tribal textiles has always had a strong appeal for her.

‘Makers’ Tales’ showcases invited artists and makers in a series of exhibitions designed to celebrate the fine traditions of artisan design and production.

The latest showcase “Catarina Riccabona Hand-woven Textiles” is on from 17th September to 12th October. She will be at the GGC showroom on the 20th September for a “Meet the Maker” day to discuss her work and explain the ethos behind her practice.

Guy Goodfellow Collection Showroom.15 Langton Street, London SW10 0JB
www.guygoodfellowcollection.com   Tel: 020 7352 9002

Text and images, with thanks to Catarina Riccabona

Première Vision Designs: The Aviary Studio

Launched in the Spring of 2016, and now in their third year of business, The Aviary Studio make their debut in the Première Visions DESIGNS hall 5, stand no: 5SW46 this September 2018.

The Aviary Studio is a UK based hand weaving studio and design consultancy founded by British designer and established weaver Sarah Podlesny, a Central Saint Martins alumni who has a clear vision to inspire, and to fill the constant demand for newness in an age where ‘copying’ has become standard practice.

Fabric design is often overlooked in favour of the cut and style of a garment, wovens often overlooked in favour of print, and with this in mind, it is The Aviary Studio’s aim to put the spotlight back on wovens, celebrate their cultural importance, their versatility and the invaluable talent and craftsmanship of their makers.

Each season, extensive trend, colour and materials research is gathered, interpreted and applied through the medium of hand weaving, in order to offer a collection of directional fabric ideas that are integral to the design process within mainstream and high end retail. Continue reading →

Company Profile: Rise & Woll

Rise & Woll is a multi-award winning design studio, offering innovative woven solutions to the interior and textile industries. Founded by Rosie Moorman and Will Evans, the duo are internationally renowned for their contemporary weaving practise and bold use of colour.

Rise & Woll aims to provide a fresh approach to surface and constructed textile design, combining the founders’ respective backgrounds in weaving, graphic and product design, experience in industry, and innate design knowledge to provide contemporary textile designs that honour the heritage of the weaving industry.

With clients ranging from specialist yarn spinners, to interior designers, to lingerie manufacturers, Rise & Woll offers a holistic approach to brief-led design.

The studio offers two in-house collections per year, available on a Sale by Design basis, with each design sold inclusive of transfer of rights and technical specification for production. Alongside this, the studio also operates on a consultancy basis, creating bespoke ranges for their clients, and short run production on the in-house handlooms.

Based in West Yorkshire, the studio is in prime location for manufacture, and work with local commission weavers to offer a seamless transition to UK based production as required. Further-afield, the studio has contacts with manufacturing plants across Europe and the far East. Continue reading →

Profile & Exhibition: Hannah Robson

Hannah Robson constructs sculptural textile pieces using combinations of weaving and lace-making, exploring how threads can escape the traditional vertical and horizontal pathways imposed by the loom.

She studied at Winchester School of Art before going on to the Royal College of Art to complete an MA in Woven Textiles. During her MA she developed methods for creating three-dimensional forms through textile construction techniques, which continue to inform her experimental practice.

She creates opportunities for threads of metal, paper and polyester to break away from woven surfaces, taking alternative routes through space and joining together in three-dimensions. She exploits the tensions between rigorously controlled constructions and free-flowing loose threads, balancing elements of structure and chaos within her work.

Robson was selected by the Crafts Council and Jay Osgerby to develop new ideas to exhibit as part of Collect Open 2018 at Collect: The International Art Fair for Contemporary Objects.

Her installation Ersilia is inspired by the chapter of the same name in Italo Calinvo’s Invisible Cities, in which strings are are stretched between the inhabitants of the city, creating ‘spider-webs of intricate relationships seeking a form‘.
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Weaver Profile: Jacqueline James

Established weaver Jacqueline James specialises in making hand woven, custom dyed rugs and wall hangings for public and private collections.  Harmonious colour combinations and striking patterns are both strong and distinctive elements of her woven designs.

Each piece is exclusive and custom made in her York studio using a large Glimakra countermarche floor loom.

Durable and natural wool or cotton weft and linen warp are used to create rugs which are colourful, contemporary and functional.

She applies a variety of traditional, flat weave, weft-face weaving techniques, including shaft switching invented by Master Weaver Peter Collingwood OBE.

Her recent collection features several rugs made with hand dyed cotton weft yarns that are ‘painted’ with permanent dye before the weaving process to create interesting, yet unpredictable, unrepeatable colour and design effects. Continue reading →

Company Profile: Objects of Matter

Objects of Matter is a textile design studio based in Milan, specialising in the production of bespoke, luxury woven fabrics using the finest quality yarns. Each unique design is conceived and executed in collaboration with their clients. Their team works closely with their clients to develop emotional stories that suit the direction and environment of each individual project and they develop all their textiles in-house during the design and development stages. Presently they work closely with the finest Italian mills to deliver manufactured collections.

They cherish the value of fabric and aims to make everyday interactions with it precious and beautiful. They feel often fabric is overlooked as a medium of its own or seen simply as an enhancing component of a garment or a product. In this regard, their specialist work aims to both respect the history and cultural value of textiles, whilst also pushing the boundaries of their creative development. They do their work to celebrate the abilities of textile designers, their willingness and their endeavour, by shaping creativity into meaningful fabric collections that are exclusive to each project.

Object of Matters diversity comes from experience working across multiple industries. As such, they aim to enrich the treatment of textiles in all environments so as to illicit positive experiences from as many people as possible. To date they have worked within the fashion industry, with automotive brands and product designers. They aim to  continue working across a range of different disciplines to both enrich the lives of their clients and to advance their depth of knowledge.

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Company Profile: The Aviary Studio

Founded by Sarah Podlesny, The Aviary Studio is a UK based hand weaving studio and design consultancy providing fabric ideas and development to the high-street and high-end fashion and interior markets.

Striving to fulfil the constant demand for newness in an age where copying has become standard practice, The Aviary Studio‘s main aim is to inspire.

Sarah graduated in from Central Saint Martins in 2010 with a BA in Woven Textiles, and also participated in the Texprint that year, winning the Prize for Innovation.

Since then, she has experienced and worked in many areas of the industry, including with suppliers, brands, and studios. Sarah spent 4 years designing, weaving and selling for Laura Miles of Woven Studio, and during that time she was also designing jacquards for the womenswear line at Vanners Silk Mill.

Her initial studio practice experience, gained her an understanding of the technical and creative possibilities and constraints of woven fabric, and a great deal of experience selling, liaising and problem solving with clients.

From her time working for a mill, she learnt the invaluable skill of translating hand woven swatches into mill adaptations, and expanded her understanding of weave to industrial and computerized level, as well as hand woven. Continue reading →

Company Profile: Esther Van Schuylenbergh

Esther Van Schuylenbergh  is a designer with a master’s degree in Textile Design at the School of Arts in Ghent, Belgium. After  graduation in 2014 she worked as a textile designer for a Belgian wall covering company until setting up her own design studio in Ghent in 2016.

In her design studio she develops woven textiles suitable for interior design applications on her handloom. Striving to push the boundaries of the weaving technique, she explores the possibilities of yarn and construction to create innovative structures.

The core business of the studio is the design and development of woven textiles for the industry. By using a 32-shaft computerized handloom, Esther is creating dobby weaves with a keen eye for texture, pattern and colour.

Currently, she is working on a library of unique design swatches for upholstery, curtain and wall covering fabrics which are suitable for industrial production. Each sample is designed on the handloom and ready for mill development. All swatches are sold complete with copyright, technical files and yarn information.
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Company Profile: Check Me Out

Check Me Out launched in 2015 with the aim to connect people with colour and design and encourage them away from fast throwaway fashion.
Holly Pressdee, the founder of Check Me Out graduated from Chelsea College of Art and Design in 2009 with a degree in woven textiles, and has been working within the British textiles industry for the last 7 years with the brand Dashing Tweeds.
During her degree her main area of research was emotionally durable design and the meanings of patterns culturally, where she was inspired by the heritage and meaning of tartan fabrics.
After finishing her degree, she started a blog where she would design bespoke check patterns by taking photos of her friends and family, abstracting the colours of their skin, hair, eyes and what they were wearing and use these colours within the designs to create their unique check patterns.
This lead to the creation of her company where she wanted to create check patterns a wider audience could connect with and began by designing the London check, using the colours of the London underground tube map. The map is such an  iconic image for londoners and tourists, everyone has associations with the tube lines they use.

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Weaving Futures: Week 11 | Ismini Samanidou

Weaving Futures is an exhibition at London Transport Museum highlighting the importance of woven textile design to the London Transport system. The exhibition explores the process and making of digital woven textiles, as part of the Museums’, Designology season. Weaving Futures is curated by Philippa Brock and Samuel Plant Dempsey.

Each week, visitors will can see invited designers/artists in residence in the Designology studio, who will be working on a project brief and interacting with a weaver in their residency dates. The weavers will be interpreting the residents work live into digital woven textile prototypes and final works on a state-of-the-art TC2 digital jacquard loom. 

Week 11 features:  Ismini Samanidou
Residency dates: 1st – 4th Feb 2017
Activity days 3rd & 4th Feb 2017

Athens born and South East of England based artist Ismini Samanidou trained at Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art. Her practice touches on the boundaries of craft, art and design with work developed for site specific commissions, industry collaborations and unique pieces for exhibition.  The work is often site specific and explores the way textiles can be articulated within a space. Ismini has travelled and researched textile techniques worldwide and is principally interested in the way weaving exists as an autonomous language crossing cultural and political

Her work has been exhibited internationally with solo shows in the UK and USA. Recent work includes commissioned textile panels for the National Theatre in London, an invited residency at the Josef and Anni Albers Foundation in Connecticut, USA and work exhibited at the Espace De L’Art Concret in France and the Hangzhou Textile Triennial in China. Ismini’s textiles are held in private and public collections including the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

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