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Company Profile: The Aviary Studio

Founded by Sarah Podlesny, The Aviary Studio is a UK based hand weaving studio and design consultancy providing fabric ideas and development to the high-street and high-end fashion and interior markets.

Striving to fulfil the constant demand for newness in an age where copying has become standard practice, The Aviary Studio‘s main aim is to inspire.

Sarah graduated in from Central Saint Martins in 2010 with a BA in Woven Textiles, and also participated in the Texprint that year, winning the Prize for Innovation.

Since then, she has experienced and worked in many areas of the industry, including with suppliers, brands, and studios. Sarah spent 4 years designing, weaving and selling for Laura Miles of Woven Studio, and during that time she was also designing jacquards for the womenswear line at Vanners Silk Mill.

Her initial studio practice experience, gained her an understanding of the technical and creative possibilities and constraints of woven fabric, and a great deal of experience selling, liaising and problem solving with clients.

From her time working for a mill, she learnt the invaluable skill of translating hand woven swatches into mill adaptations, and expanded her understanding of weave to industrial and computerized level, as well as hand woven. Continue reading →

Weave Graduates 2017

The following Weave Designers all graduated in 2017.

This is a showcase of their final collections.

Izzie Bagwell

(Image above) Inspired by work wear and protective wear, I explored the ways in which specialist materials have been used to cover bodies that are at risk, for example soldiers and firefighters.

My designs use fabrics that are typically found in protective wear, such as padding, high visibility fabrics, neon, metals and rubber and the inclusion of text. Function//Fashion mixes new and old fibers and materials together to create hybrid pieces that reflect and acknowledge the history of protective wear.

As my research progressed I became interested in subverting ideas of clothing that is meant to protect the body and began to create faux protective wear in which style would triumph over substance. Workwear and uniforms are a constantly recurring trope of much recent fashion design, and I wanted to play with the idea of subverting and commenting on high fashion, which is aimed at and designed for elite consumers, by overlaying themes and fabrics from protective and work wear clothing onto ‘fashion’ pieces.

Perhaps thinking about recent world events and the possibility of this continuing in the future: if life in developed, capitalist countries becomes more dangerous, even for the elite, protective clothes will become not the sign of the worker, but the sign of the elite, of those that can afford ‘protection’.

email: ialbagwell@gmail.com

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Dashing Tweeds: Collaboration with Joe Whitbread

Dashing Tweeds  have worked with Joseph Whitbread in their first collaboration with a Royal College of Art student. The company has put one of his designs into production. 

An award winning student of Weaver, Kirsty McDougall – Joe’s final degree show was also chosen for a prestigious Texprint award and with his skilful designs he is definitely on the path to making a name for himself within the weaving industry.

Joseph is influenced by upbeat individuals the world over, from gregarious and colourfully plumed bee-eaters of Central Africa to the exotic stars of rock embodied by Bowie and Prince.

In addition his course work led to detailed analysis of the classic menswear tropes of the 20th century and the weave designs of cloths from the 1920’s and 30’s, especially William Watson’s influential book on colour and weave.

Dashing Tweeds saw Joseph’s work during a mid term assessment earlier this year and were very impressed by his sense of colour and the technical deflected double cloth lifting patterns he had devised.

The Dashing team then asked if he would like to produce a guest design to sit along side their AW17 fabric collections. Fortuitously their selected palette including oranges and turquoise blues in common with his inspirational bee-eaters. Continue reading →

Texprint 2017: Weave Designers

Texprint interviews, mentors and promotes the UK’s most talented textile design graduates with the support of industry professionals worldwide.

Those selected are introduced to buyers, press and sponsors at the Texprint London event, and at Europe and Asia’s leading yarn and textile exhibitions.

Texprint is entirely funded by the generous sponsorship of industry and by British charitable foundations, who believe wholeheartedly in supporting textile design talent and in encouraging design innovation and excellence.

The following Weave Designers were selected for 2017, and their work can be seen at Première Vision Designs, Paris, Europe’s leading textile design specialty show, where the designers will exhibit their unique textile design collections, meet international buyers and make contacts.

The Texprint Awards Presentation, promoting the talent of British-trained textile designers to an international audience, takes place in the Texprint ‘village’ in Hall 5 and is attended by industry guests and press.  The 2017 Prize Presenter in Paris will be star Japanese designer Yuma Koshino.:

Julia Lidell ( Top image)
The Hen Folk Dress Collection. Hen is a new Swedish word referring to he or she. This is used when the gender is unknown or has no significance for the comunicated message.

Hen Collection is a lifestyle collection, made applicable to gender neutral fashion and accessories, as well as interiors.

The collection explores both heavy and light designs that celebrate the potential of wool and natural materials. Research into the wider heritage of Scandinavia: garments and ships from the viking age, folk dress and craft techniques that are still used today, has inspired a multi-functional collection. This collection is inspired by objects that hold a history and traditional Scandinavian craft techniques as a tool for contemporary design.

I have a wide passion for crafts and materials. Textiles have always been an interest of mine, previous to my woven textiles degree in London, I studied tailoring and design for three years at college in Sweden. Textiles has become my specialism but I have a wide interest for many different crafts, ceramics, silversmithing, embroidery. The key for me is the authenticity of materials and the value of old craft technique.The last year I have been focussing on creating delicate but heavily textured contemporary woven designs, with a high wool content in earthy grounded colours, inspired by objects that hold a history, and by traditional techniques.

E:julia.lidell@gmail.com

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Crossover Borås 2017: European Textile Network Conference

Crossover Borås 2017, the XVIII conference of the European Textile Network, ETN, will be held September 12-19, 2017, The main conference sessions will take place on Saturday and Sunday, September 16-17, 2017. at the Swedish Museum of Textiles, located in the city of Borås, 30 minutes from Gothenburg airport.

The Borås Textile Fashion Centre not only houses the Museum but also the Swedish School of Textiles, an internationally renowned centre for textile innovation in fashion and design plus the Smart Textiles Lab.

The conference co-organizers are the European Textile Network, ETN, together with the Swedish Museum of Textiles and Nordic Textile Art association. The conference aims to present a global perspective of the different textile practices and their interactions with a special focus on sustainable creativity and innovation in textile art and design.

Speakers include Lij Edelkoort, one of the world’s most famous trend forecasters, Faigh Ahmed, Azerbaijani artist well known for his conceptual approach to traditional textiles, Jun Tomita, Japanese kasuri weaving master, Grethe Sørensen, Danish Jacquard weaver who recently received the Nordic Award in Textiles, and Catharine Ellis, who together with textile chemist Joy Boutrup, will talk about collaborative projects between art and science, among others.

Continue reading →

Exhibition: The Handweavers Studio

Handweavers diploma exhibition 2017 is showcasing the final project work of the 2015-2017 diploma students

Following a long tradition of nurturing weavers, in 2011 under the directorship of Wendy Morris, the Handweavers Studio & Gallery launched a two-year Diploma course in handweaving.

Since the Diploma’s inception, the handweavers studio has been delighted to provide an excellent grounding in the craft skill for a series of enthusiastic students wishing to take their handweaving to another level. The Diploma, running biennially with a limited intake, focuses on developing good weaving skills and the ability to produce well designed desirable handwoven items for a variety of outcomes. Continue reading →

Exhibition | On the Line: New perspectives on craft in Southeast Asia

On the Line: New perspectives on craft in Southeast Asia
Dates: 4 May – 17 June 2017

Venue: The Aram Gallery, 110 Drury Lane, Covent Garden, London WC2B 5SG

The Aram Gallery is hosting ‘On the Line’, a British Council exhibition exploring craft through the practices of women in Southeast Asia.

The show’s opening coincides with London Craft Week (3-7 May 2017). On the Line seeks to question the sustainability of craft in Southeast Asia in the context of increasing globalisation. It offers a range of insights into the lives and cultures of women working in this sector today.
Continue reading →

Exhibition | Entangled: Threads & Making

Entangled: Threads & Making is a major exhibition of sculpture, installation, tapestry, textiles and jewellery from the early 20th century to the present day at the Turner Contemporary, Margate. It features over 40 international female artists who expand the possibilities of embroidery, weaving, sewing and wood carving, often incorporating unexpected materials such as plants, clothing, hair and bird quills.

Entangled: Threads & Making is curated by writer and critic Karen Wright, with Turner Contemporary. Wright became fascinated by the making processes she saw first-hand on the many studio visits she did with artists for her ‘In the Studio’ column for the Independent. The idea for Entangled: Threads & Making evolved out of these visits, in particular one with renowned American artist Kiki Smith who was working on her epic tapestry Sky (2012), included in the exhibition.

The exhibition brings together artists from different generations and cultures who challenge established categories of craft, design and fine art, and who share a fascination with the handmade and the processes of making itself.

A new publication accompanies the exhibition, with essays and interviews by Ann Coxon, Stina Högkvist, Siri Hustvedt, Kathryn Lloyd, Rosa Martínez, Marit Paasche, Frances Morris and Karen Wright. Available from the Turner Contemporary shop.

Dates: Sat 28 Jan – Sun 7 May 2017

Image & Text: Turner Contemporary website

 

The Cockpit Arts / Clothworkers’ Foundation Award 2017: Call for Entries

Applications are invited for the Cockpit Arts / The Clothworkers’ Foundation Awards 2017. The Awards are only open to weavers who have graduated within the last 5 years.

The Awards aim to assist emerging weavers each year to set up in business by providing studio space and business support provided by Cockpit Arts as well as shared use of looms. The selection panel, including the acclaimed ikat weaver and designer Mary Restieaux, and a representative of The Clothworkers’ Foundation, will be looking for up to three individuals who demonstrate entrepreneurial spirit as well as creative excellence and craft skills.

The Award contributes to the cost of a place at Cockpit for one year from July 2017 and will include a space in a shared studio equipped with a dye area, 3 looms, Leclerc and Louet, and the following benefits:
• Studio space and use of looms within the creative community of Cockpit Arts at Deptford, London, SE8 with access to office facilities and resource centre.
• Business and professional development services including on-site coaching, a personalised development plan, workshops and seminars.
• A range of selling and promotional opportunities including Cockpit Arts Open Studios selling events twice a year.
• Award worth £2,000 with the remaining £2,000 fee being provided by the Award winners, payable on a monthly basis.
How to Apply:
• Please request a “Clothworkers Award” application pack from dana@cockpitarts.com
• Deadline for receipt of applications is midday, Wednesday 12 April 2017
• Interviews with shortlisted applicants will be held on Thursday 20 April 2017
• Move into Cockpit Arts Deptford no later than 1 July 2017

Weaving Futures: Week 13 | Eleanor Pritchard

Weaving Futures is an exhibition at London Transport Museum highlighting the importance of woven textile design to the London Transport system. The exhibition explores the process and making of digital woven textiles, as part of the Museums’, Designology season. Weaving Futures is curated by Philippa Brock and Samuel Plant Dempsey.

Each week, visitors will can see invited designers/artists in residence in the Designology studio, who will be working on a project brief and interacting with a weaver in their residency dates. The weavers will be interpreting the residents work live into digital woven textile prototypes and final works on a state-of-the-art TC2 digital jacquard loom. 

Week 13 features: Eleanor Pritchard

Closes the Weaving Futures season
Residency dates: 15th – 18th Feb 2017
Activity days: 17th & 18th Feb 2017

Eleanor Pritchard  are a small hands-on weave studio based in Deptford, South East London, who design and manufacture an upholstery and an interior accessories range.

Their signature style is characterized by bold geometrics and graphic reversible patterns in a palette that combines chalky and cross-hatched neutrals, sharp accents and deep inky tones. Their aesthetic is clean and contemporary with a nod to English mid-century design. The fabrics draw inspiration from traditional British textile crafts, re-interpreting the vernacular for a contemporary audience.

They work with different mills in the UK for their production and are closely involved with the production and finishing processes.

Their accessory collection is sold world wide through stores including,  Margaret Howell, Twentytwentyone and Artek.

The Aerial upholstery fabric collection has been used on a wide range of furniture projects including the Queen Elizabeth II Conference Centre and Ham Yard Hotel and Eleanor Pritchard have  also worked with studios including Sfera Ricordi and Pelikan. Continue reading →