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Beatwoven: Nadia-Anne Ricketts

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As a part of The Southbank’s summer festival The Festival of Love and the London Philharmonic Orchestra’s (LPO) year long festival, Rachmaninoff: Inside Out, Nadia-Anne Ricketts was commissioned to create a textile art piece for the Royal Festival Hall interpreting Rachmaninoff Piano Concerto No. 2. This was used within David Lean’s award winning 1945 love film Brief Encounter, which was screened at the Hall in August, and was accompanied by a newly commissioned orchestral soundtrack played by the LPO itself.

She has also designed  a small capsule collection  of woven textiles with three design variations, which show how one song can be translated into a handful of designs, either literally or abstract. These are currently available to purchase at The Southbank Centre.

At her London design studio, BeatWoven, Ricketts has designed a bespoke audio software program that translates any played music into visual patterns, especially for weaving. “Similar to that of a very granulated, broken down sound wave, it inspects and discovers the patterns happening within the sound wave.”

For the commissioned piece, she started by playing the Rachmaninoff concerto over and over through the software to analyse and become familiar with the patterns. Though the basic colour palette was determined by the interior design of the Royal Festival Hall, where it will be installed, Ricketts also uses her previous performing experience to connect with the music, juxtaposed with extensive research for each song, including the artist, genre, era and story behind its composition, to ultimately choose colour combinations and yarns. “When designing my musical textile pieces I feel that I am expressing my passion for music in a visual way, rather than as a dance performance. The designing and making process becomes my visual music performance”.
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GoodWeave Founder Wins Nobel Peace Prize

GoodWeaveThe Norwegian Nobel Committee has awarded the 2014 peace prize to Kailash Satyarthi and Malala Yousafzai, two individuals who have staked their lives on the belief that children, regardless of gender, geography, faith, caste or social circumstance, belong in classrooms. Kailash Satyarthi is the founder of the GoodWeave international rug certification scheme, which works to end child labour in the rug industry and which is active in the UK.

GoodWeave is an international non-profit organisation that aims to stop child labour in the rug industry and to replicate its market-based approach in other sectors. In the UK there are 16 GoodWeave rug designers and importers which are signed up to child-labour-free rugs and the GoodWeave label, including The Rug Company, Matthew Wailes, Jacaranda Carpets, Bazaar Velvet and Deirdre Dyson.

From the cocoa fields of Côte d’Ivoire to the carpet sheds of Uttar Pradesh, there are 168 million children around the world who toil in obscurity. In the announcement from Oslo, Committee chairman Thorbjorn Jagland said: “Showing great personal courage, Kailash Satyarthi, maintaining Gandhi’s tradition, has headed various forms of protests and demonstrations, all peaceful, focusing on the grave exploitation of children for financial gain.”

GoodWeave2In the 1980s, Kailash Satyarthi began rescuing children from bondage. As chairman of the South Asian Coalition on Child Servitude, he fought against child slavery one factory at a time, one child at a time. He conducted rescue raids and liberated children who were enduring extreme violence, some brutally beaten if they ever tried to escape. Following one such raid, Satyarthi personally returned a trafficked boy to his home village. When he went to board a train home, Satyarthi saw dozens and dozens of children destined for the looms in the hands of middlemen. Arrested for causing a disturbance at the station, Satyarthi suddenly realised that this situation required a larger solution. “Something else had to be done. I thought, ‘Consumers have to be educated!’” Satyarthi said in a 2013 interview

This realisation was for him a turning point, and for the child labour movement a profound shift in thinking and strategy. In addition to exposing the ugly truth behind beautiful rugs, Satyarthi set out to establish a certification system that would incentivise manufacturers to stop exploiting children as well as guide consumer purchases. Thus the RugMark label, later to become GoodWeave, was born and the first certified carpets were exported from India in 1995.

Today, GoodWeave works in the top consumer capitals of the world and in the key rug-producing areas across Asia, expanding most recently to Afghanistan. Its programmes in weaving villages near Kabul, Mazar and soon Herat are reaching girls, many of whom resemble Malala. In the two decades since Satyarthi’s jail cell, the organisation has gone on to reduce the number of “rug kids” in the region by two-thirds.

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Job: Neuba

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Neuba is looking for a diligent and creative weave designer with a strong knowledge of hand weaving and a good understanding in Jacquard. The applicant needs at least one year of experience in the weaving industry and experience working with layered & multiple warped cloths would be a strong advantage.

Neuba is a small, independent British brand, working between England and India, producing hand-woven menswear. They explore the physical richness achievable with highly tactile weaves, traditional skills and contemporary textile design.

Neuba is retailed through high-level independent boutiques around the world.

The project will be based in London and will last for a negotiable six weeks, including a minimum fortnight of practical hand weaving time by the selected designer. Throughout the project they will work closely with the team to conceptualise and produce 4 – 6 new designs. This will be realised through two warp setups with 2-3 swatches/iterations minimum on each setup. Designs carried forward to production will form part of Neuba’s Spring Summer 2016 collection.

A dobby loom will be available for the project if required.

The person selected will also have to work up a design concept for the collection including a ‘sketchbook’, mood board,  and colour palette and be able to execute detailed technical notes to liase with the mill in India.

It is planned that the project will commence in early 2015. Applicants should email their CV and a photographic portfolio (2-3 A4 pages) with a short covering note about why they are interested in this project by 1st November. Successful candidates for interview will be notified by 4th November with interviews being held on the 8th.

Email: aldo@neuba.uk
www.neuba.uk

Silvery Threads Winner: Rita Parniczky

X-RayVaults 2014As previously reported on The Weave Shed, The Costume and Textile Association for Norfolk Museums (C&TA) was  celebrating its 25th Anniversary in October 2014 by holding an open, juried textiles competition and exhibition on the theme of  “Silvery Threads”. The exhibition was held in The Hostry, Norwich Cathedral, was from 2nd to 13th October 2014.
The idea of the Silvery Threads Competition developed from looking through the early journals of the C&TA, when there was often an annual competition.

Rita Parniczky was announced the overall  winner of  the Geoffrey Squire Memorial Competition and also won the wall hung pieces 1st place award. Out of 136 entries from all over the world, 65 were selected by an independent panel for this Competition Exhibition. Entries were judged without the knowledge of the names or where the entries came from. The selection includes entries from Norfolk, Suffolk and other parts of Great Britain as well as New Zealand and the United States of America. Continue reading →

The New Creative Markets Programme: Cockpit Arts

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Cockpit Arts is an award winning social enterprise and the UK’s only creative-business incubator for designer-makers. Since they first started in 1986 they have helped thousands of talented craftspeople to grow their businesses, many of whom have gone on to achieve national and international success.

The New Creative Markets Programme at Cockpit Arts is a professional development programme designed to help designer-makers increase the sales of their work, consider and reach new markets, and achieve greater sustainability. This exciting new programme offers 12 hours of tailored support to give you the confidence and skills needed to develop or diversify your business, and get paid what you’re worth.

Cockpit Arts  work closely with participants to address their most pressing professional needs, and participants will have a diagnostic with a Cockpit Arts Business Coach to help  create individuals own programme. In addition to six essential workshops, we offer a mix of workshops and one-to-one support participants can pick and choose from to improve market understanding and your sales. With our growing pool of experts these sessions will help partcipants expand their market through new routes or products, and underpin this with the essentials.

Essentials include: selling and negotiation, crafting your writing, press & PR, brand development, pricing for the market, and increasing efficiency. Pick and choose from: market development for the retail or art market, exporting, product range development, digital presence, tax for creatives, contracts & intellectual property. Plus the opportunity for one-to-one support from Cockpit Arts’ Business Coaches, talks from industry specialists and networking with other artists/programme participants.
Please note the final programme is shaped based on the needs of the selected participants. Workshops will run approximately bi-monthly from January to June 2015.
Project part-financed by the European Union

This is a call for designer-makers. Apply for a FREE place on this programme to help increase sales and achieve greater sustainability. Deadline 15th October 2014.
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